Famadihana, the exhumation or turning the deads ceremony

Every 7 years this Merina family does the Famadihana. And I was lucky enough to end up at this event.

* Merina (“those who always come back”) people live on the plateau of Madagascar, just south of Tana (short for Antananarivo). They originate from Indonesia, and yeah one can see it from their facial features.

Famadihana is a traditional ritual that different Malagasy ethnic groups organize, typically once every 5 years (richer family) or 7 years (less rich family), each group having it’s own twist, of course. But generally, this is a funerary tradition according to which the family organizes an event translated in English as the turning the deads or turning the bones. An extended family from all around the Madagascar and friends from the village come to the event.

The first day, the family gathers; the second day, there is a party for close family; and the third day the real fest is held.
While playing the music and dancing, they all enter the family thomb and bring out the bodies of the ancestors. They sort all the bodies outside the thomb, they redress (rewrap) the corpses in fresh “clothes” and rewrite their names on them so they will always be remembered. Then they offer the corps to drink some rhum, it is to satisfy spirits.

I was part of this event on a sunny day mid-September. The family head and his wife were totally welcoming and happy I was there. They told me that it was the first time they found the bees in the tomb, but that they think the spirits are bringing them good luck. They thanked me about million times, while in fact, it is me who was honoured to be allowed to be an part of their personal event.

Itinerary – Version 1

Antsisarabe: the National Parks

Tsiribinha river boat trip

Tsingy Bemaraha National Park

Baobabs Avenue

Morondava

Belo-sur-mer [See Here] and [See Here]

Kirindy National Parc

Itinerary – Version 2

Antsisarabe: the National Parks

Morondava

Baobabs Avenue

Tsingy Bemaraha National Park

Belo-sur-mer [See Here] and [See Here]

Kirindy National Parc

(Another National Parc of choice)

Tips

Islands

Nosy be (flight) or Ile Sainte Marie (flight or taxi+boat)

If you add one of these islands to your trip, I would suggest to include it in the beginning of your trip. If weather is bad upon your return from the islands, the flights and boats might be grounded for a few days. Many travellers have missed their outward flights for such reasons. In such a case, do not expect any compensation.

Antananarivo on Sunday: visit Akamasoa

If you are in Antananarivo on Sunday, it is worth going to Akamasoa, where Pedro Opeka holds his famous colourful mass (even if you are atheist, you will enjoy the experience).

Budget Agency Trip through the Center and the West

There are agencies doing the trip: Tsiribinha, Tsingy Bemaraha, Baobabs Avenue, Morondava, they form a group with other solo travelers. It saves quite some time. Do not accept having a guide called Louva.

Tsingy Bemaraha National Park

Tsingy Bemaraha National Park can be only reached on 4×4. There are two circuits in Tsingy, a small and a big circuit.

Big and small Tsingy can be visited in a day. Obviously, the circuit taken in the Big Tsingy will be shortened significantly. To do both in a day requires some fitness.

If one decides to do the big one for more than a day, one can sleep in the park, and it is supposedly amazing.

If one does the visit with the agency, they will typically try to discourage you to go for more than a day (the agency would face greater costs if the group splits).

Famadihana, the exhumation or turning the deads cemremony

From June to Novemberm it is a period for Famadihana, the exhumation or turning the deads ceremony.

There are two versions of it.

• More wide spread Sakalava ethnic group version, which is generally spread through the island. [See Here]
• Vezo ethnic group version, which can be found in the west coast.

Transport by land

Regular Taxi

Relevant for short distances in the cities, in the suburbs of Tana and along the main national routes.

Any hotel can arrange the taxi, but be aware it will be a little more expensive. If you are on a stringent budget, head out of hotel and around the first or the second corner you will bump into number of taxis. Negotiate and this way you can get a better deal.

• Akamasoa: 25 km from Tana city center: 30.000Ar one way, 50.000Ar return (Hotel arranged taxi).
• Airport: 17 km: 50.000Ar one way (Hotel arranged taxi).

Private taxi with a driver (4×4)

70-90 eur/day. Depending on your negotiation skills. Gas included.

You can get information in the tourist information offices, in the hotel or just ask locals, they will quickly bring you someone to give you information needed.

• Alternatively, check the FB page: “Location 4×4 Madagascar”

Rent-a-car

It is not advisable to drive on your own.

Bus

Buses are rare and mostly present in larger cities.

Taxi-Brousse (sharing taxi)

Taxi-brousse: This is a sharing taxi, usally an old car or a van that is falling apart. It stops just everywhere and picks up the passengers and be aware the driver will pick up as many people as possible. Sometimes as many as three people are squeezed in per one seat and sometimes the door can not be even closed. For some comfort, consider buying two tickets and demand having an own seat. Price is literally a few cents and this is way the cheapest way to travel around Madagascar. Not the fastest, though.

Deluxe-Taxi-Brousse: This is also sharing taxi, however, it is much newer and cleaner and it drives to a destination without a stop. You will have your own seat. It starts the journey within a schedule (up to 30 minutes delay) and it comes to a destination on time (Potentially earlier than they have told you).

• Morondava – Antananarivo: 15 hours, price 45.000Ar/person.
• Toliara – Antananarivo: 22 hours non-stop, price 52.000Ar/person.

NGO cars: Sometimes people working at NGOs are heading in certain directions. They typically come to taxi-brousse stops and pick the locals (or tourists) for the same price as taxi-brousse.

Carandale or Kamion-Brousse (sharing truck)

In the south, Carandale is the only possibility to move around except for the 4×4 vehicle. Especially in the rainy season, when one needs to cross the rivers and the water is too high for the cars to pass. It departs once a week or once per forth-night depending on the route. Price: Cheaper than taxi-brousse.

Motorbike

One can go everywhere by cross-motorbike. /but the roads are demanding, especially in the sandy south. Be experienced and have a good insurance.

Pousse-Pousse (riksha)

Malagasy bicycle riksha: Very convenient to move around the town. Count about 1000Ar/km.

Malagasy walking riksha: Mostly reserved for a transfer of stocks.

Transport on the sea and rivers

Boats, Galletes, Pirogues

Galletes (large sailing boats): Be patient, at least once a week one will pass by. Jump on it and enjoy the cheapest way to go down to the south by the sea. It is very random and slow way of traveling.

NGO boats: Similarly as with the NGO’s cars, sometimes the boats are heading in certain directions. They pick up the locals or tourists). Price depends on the negotiation. It is typically a good deal.

Modern motor boats: Prices depend on the negotiation, but do not expect a cheap deal unless you are sharing the trip with larger group.

Motor Pirogue (a local wooden boat with the motor): Prices depend on the negotiation, they are approximately at least double to triple of the price of the local “pirogue a voile”.

X(larger sailing boat): Typically used to transfer stocks between the cities. Similarly to the case of Gallets, head to the harbor and try your luck.

Pirogue a voile (small sailing boat): Ask in the village for it. In an hour or two, somebody will come back with the pirogist (sailor). There are typically two or three pirogists, and depending on their number they can take on board three or two people.

Transport by Air

Air Madagsacar / internal lines

[To be added: Several internal flights]

[To be added: Unreliable]

[To be added: See post How reliable is Air Madagascar]

Pro-hints

If you are low budget and traveling by taxi-brousse, do take Deluxe-Taxi-Brousse any long distances. You will pay some 3-5 euros more for the distance of 1.000km, but you will start on time and without any unnecessary stops, you will arrive on time.

Price for Morondava-Antanarivo is 45.000Ar, and for Toliara-Antanarivo it is 52.000 Ar.

If you are tight on time, go by Deluxe-Taxi-Brousse instead of flying. 🙂

How to go to Belo Sur Mer, Madagascar

Belo Sur Mer, Vezo Fishermen’s Village

Sweet Vezo village.